Wednesday, November 12, 2008

Montmartre semble triste et les lilas sont morts


My favorite song, thus far, is one by Julien Clerc, "Fait-Moi une Place."  
Youtube's selections were all lacking, but I'm posting this one so that you get to hear the song.  For some reason it starts off during the middle of the first verse, sorry about that.  

Today Marion, Arash, Jean-Charles and I trekked our way up to the 18th arrondissement of Paris to visit Montmartre.  This district of Paris is placed on top of the hill, overlooking the rest of the city.  Ever heard of the Basilica of the Sacre Coeur?  Well, its there.  It's interesting because Montmartre was not considered part of Paris during the time Napoleon III and Baron Haussman (the guy who basically renovated the entire city) were doing their thaaang.  Ever since then, it's had it's own sort of vibe.  It's kind of quirky in the sense that it's kept its old school vibes while the rest of the city has really changed with the times.  
I realized today that if I really wanted to find the artistic hub of the city, it was no longer Left Bank, Montparnasse, but Right Bank, Montmartre.  

The view from the very top of the city, right next to the Basilica is unworldly.  I thought Centre Pompidou was good, but this view was even more panoramic and even more...ideal.  It's like you're looking down at the city from the clouds.  The only problem I had (and Marion laughed at me and told me that I should stop behaving like a Parisian) was that the Tour Montparnasse TOTALLY takes away from the view of Paris.  Everything else is so classical and charmant, and then there's this tall building, randomly jutting out from the middle.  I just find it random and unnecessary.  haha.  "Je suis parisienne.   c'est d'accord." 

We went inside the Sacre Coeur and it was absolutely breathtaking in all of its architectural grandeur.  I mean, the way it's built is really unique to any other building in Paris.  The building itself is completely white, while the stained glass windows add a hint of color, causing the inside to have a red glow.  
Millions of candles with burning flames line the walls.  People come from all over the world and light candles and prayer.  The pews are scattered with people sitting, praying, crying.
Marion and Jean Charles, who are both very religious (I actually didn't know this until later) both took lit candle, sat down and prayed. 
I realized how different the experience inside the basilica was for them, than it was for me or Arash.  For us, it was a beautiful building from which we could find pleasure.  It was a historical landmark that needed to be seen.
For them, it was a sanctuary.  A place where their prayers would be heard.  
When they walked out, they were both uncharacteristically subdued.  Marion later told me that praying in the Sacre Coeur today was very paradoxical for her.  She has been having a hard time getting adjusted to life in Paris, she misses her friends and family back home.  So she said, praying, meditating, self-reflecting, they are hard tasks for her.  It was very hard for her to be in that sort of spiritual sanctuary.  And yet, she told me, she felt like it was something she HAD to do.  That the pain she felt in the moment was worth the ease she felt afterwards.

I don't know what else to type after something like that.  It's cold and rainy here a lot, so everyone takes advantage of clear sunny weather like we had today.  It was nice to be outside and take in the fresh air.  

I like Montmartre a lot.  In Marion's words, "I think I go back soon."  

love, Ranna